How are labels reflecting quiet luxury trend in their assortment?
Nicola Mira
In recent seasons, the talk has been all about ‘quiet luxury’. According to GoogleLectra
As this new hushed chic is becoming more influential, a few labels renowned for their essential, evergreen style have been faring especially well, like Brunello CucinelliBottega VenetaThe RowOlsen
Their uniqueness is especially evident when these labels’ range is compared to that of a house like Gucci
The Retviews by Lectra study has also noted that quiet luxury labels “tend to concentrate their efforts,” focusing on a single product category. For example, ready-to-wear accounts for 44% of the assortment at The Row and 35% at Loro Piana, as opposed to an approximately 20% share for other labels, while leather goods account for 48% of the range at Bottega Veneta. Only
No logo
Quiet luxury not only rejects logos and ostentatious features, but it is also distinctive for a palette of natural, understated colours. This is especially a feature for “labels like The Row, Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli and Bottega Veneta, which have a marked propensity, 11% higher than other labels’, to utilise hues like black, grey, beige, white, and neutral colours in general,” noted the study, which also found that “labels that are strongly identified [as ‘quiet luxury’] avoid bold, loud colours.”
The difference is even more marked when it comes to fabrics. Loro Piana and The Row feature 61% more items made with premium fabrics than Gucci or Prada
It is instead harder to identify a price positioning that is specific to quiet luxury. Luxury labels by and large adopt a policy of very high prices. It is worth noting that, in terms of “most frequent pricepoint,” Loro Piana sits at the lower end of the spectrum with €940, compared to €1,300 for Bottega Veneta and €1,470 for The Row. Looking at evening gown prices, the study found that Gucci’s are the highest, ranging from €1,600 to €9,800, followed by The Row, whose prices range from €830 to €8,540.
The appetite for quiet luxury isn’t about to subside. In the coming months, even the most exuberant labels are expected to lean towards this kind of style, or to adapt to it at least partly. Starting from Gucci. After dismissing Alessandro MicheleKering
